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Overview:
Western South Africa (8-22 October 2008) including a day trip with
Cape Town Pelagics.
KwaZulu-Natal (23-29 October 2008)
Detailed Trip Report:
WESTERN SOUTH AFRICA
8 October: Cape Town - South Peninsula
I met Frank, Ian and Colin at Cape Town International Airport. Rearing
to go, we transferred straight to Afton Grove Country
Retreat, where Bill awaited (having arrived the previous day) everyone
with news of his morning glimpses of Knysna Warbler.
Once all had recovered from Bill’s enthusiastic welcome (I
suspect Frank still has bruised ribs!), it was off to Cape Point,
winding along the scenic coastal road via Simonstown. The Cape fynbos
was resplendent following the recent rains, with many proteas in
flower. Soon everyone had seen the full sweep of nectarivores: the
endemic Cape Sugarbird and Orange-breasted Sunbird, joined by Southern
Double-collared and Malachite Sunbirds.
Lunch was enjoyed overlooking False Bay, before heading down to
the Cape of Good Hope. Here a strong south-easter buffeted the coast,
driving Shy Albatross, White-chinned Petrel, Sooty Shearwater and
Northern Giant Petrel close inshore, but also causing the postponement
of the pelagic trip scheduled for the following day. Among the hundreds
of Cape Cormorant roosting on some offshore islets, we also saw
several White-breasted and Crowned Cormorant. Other species along
the rocky shore included African Penguin and African Black Oystercatcher,
with the first Hartlaub’s and Cape Gulls making up the numbers
of marine species. Landbirds kept low and out of the wind. Still,
we managed to see our first handsome Bokmakierie, Common Ostrich,
Grey-backed Cisticola and Cape Bulbul.
The day was ended off with a visit to Kommetjie, where a lone Bank
Cormorant was located to complete the sweep of all three endemic
marine cormorants. Offshore, Parasitic and Pomarine Jaegers harried
various tern species.
9 October: Cape Town and surrounds, including Sir Lowry’s
Pass
Glorious weather greeted us at Sir Lowry’s Pass. Fortunately
the winds that caused the pelagic trip to be postponed had not reached
the Hottentot’s Holland Mountains, just to the east of Cape
Town. Hardly having left the car park at the top of the pass we
found a pair of confiding Cape Rockjumper, feeding a recently-fledged
juvenile. Saturated with views of these fantastic birds, it was
time to move on to another fynbos endemic.. As per usual, Victorin’s
Warbler, of notorious skulking ability, called incessantly from
tall, dense scrub. After some searching, a less secretive pair,
that everyone could see, was detected. On the way back to the vehicle
we paused for Cape Grassbird, a large, unusual warbler, as a Martial
Eagle soared low overhead.
Next was Strandfontein. En route we spotted our first handsome Jackal
Buzzard perched along the roadside. Arriving at Strandfontein, Banded
Martin, which appeared to be nesting in some of the grasslands along
the entrance road, was a surprise sighting. At the entrance an African
Fish Eagle soared in the distance. At the first settlement pond
we were met by an impressive array of waterbirds that included Maccoa
Duck, Cape Teal, Cape Shoveller, Southern Pochard and Black-necked
Grebe. Opposite, a flock of Greater Flamingo swam awkwardly. Surrounding
reedbeds produced the first Lesser Swamp Warbler and Levaillant’s
Cisticola.
After lunch, news that the pelagic trip has once again been postponed
was soon forgotten as Malachite Kingfisher and Brimstone Canary
were located at Rondevlei. The day was rounded off in a patch of
fynbos on the Cape Peninsula, where excellent views of Cape Siskin
and Neddicky were had.
10 October: The Overberg
Thanks to another pelagic postponement, the itinerary needed to
be adjusted, which meant we had a long day ahead of us. Before sunrise
we started our journey eastwards, passing Cape Rockjumpers and continuing
on to the farmlands of the Agulhas plains. Our first stop was for
a pair of most-elegant Blue Crane, South Africa’s much-celebrated
National Bird. Here also we commenced our lark list with Large-billed
Lark, and saw our first African Pied Starlings. Gravel roads beyond
Bredasdorp took their toll on one of our tires, but a group effort
ensured we were quickly watching a couple of ridiculous male Denham’s
Bustard, strutting about in display. Nearby three Cape fox cubs
played around the entrance of their den, watched closely by their
parents.
But we did not pause for too long, as we planned to reach De Hoop
Nature Reserve before Agulhas Clapper Lark had stopped its morning
displays. Much to everyone’s delight we found our first Clappers
even before reaching the reserve, and were later treated to even
better views. Having the most important bird under our belt we turned
our attention to other species. Grey-winged Francolin scurried from
the roadside, while Pearl-breasted Swallow skimmed low over the
vegetation. A sharp Black Harrier was spotted on one of the large
grazing lawns, surrounded by Bontebok, Cape mountain zebra and Grey
rhebok. Bushy areas along the margin of the vlei revealed Burchell’s
Coucal, sunning itself after a short rain shower, a male Greater
Honeyguide singing from its call post, Streaky-headed Canary, and
a Southern Tchagra that only relented after much perseverance.
Finally it was on to Potberg, the farmlands on the way producing
Agulhas Long-billed Lark and Cloud Cisticola. While stopped at the
roadside we spotted our first Cape Vultures soaring overhead. All
that was left was Knysna Woodpecker, which, thanks to Ian’s
sharp spotting, was rapidly located. We returned to Cape Town, very
satisfied with a good day’s birding behind of us and looking
forward to our first South African braai (barbeque)!
11 October: Up the West Coast
It was time to start our journey northwards, but not before stopping
at the Constantia Greenbelt. We hadn’t even entered the forest
when the deep, eerie hoots of Buff-spotted Flufftail could be heard
coming from some dense stream-side thickets. I found a small opening
in the forest and lined everyone up where they had a view into the
vegetation. After less than a minute of tape playing, to my great
surprise, a stunning male walked into view. It scurried back and
forth a couple of times, making sure it had been well seen by all.
With only one peep from a Knysna Warbler we decided to cut our losses
and head for the spectacular Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, where
a pair of Spotted Eagle Owl peered at us from their day roost through
their large yellow eyes.
Finally we heading up along the west coast, reaching the West Coast
National Park in time for lunch. On our way to Geelbek, a male Southern
Black Korhaan posed beside the road. Lunch was shared with Cape
Francolin under, and Yellow Bishop and Cape Weaver on top of, the
tables. After lunch we visited a nearby wetland, where both African
Rail and Black Crake obliged, before heading back to watch waders
on the falling tide. The last hour of light was spent driving to
Langebaan. Searching the Strandveld vegetation en route we located
our first Chestnut-vented Titbabbler, Karoo Lark, Karoo Scrub Robin
and White-backed Mousebird.
12 October: West Coast
We started with a pre-breakfast outing to the farmlands north of
Saldanha Bay. With Cape Long-billed Lark, Sickle-winged Chat and
Cape Longclaw under the belt, breakfast tasted better than ever.
From Langebaan we made our way to Velddrif, stopping for roadside
views of Secretarybird. At Velddrift the salt works once again proved
reliable for Chestnut-banded Plover and Lesser Flamingo. Next stop:
Kransvlei Poort, where Protea Seed-eater rudely interrupted our
lunch. Other species seen here during the afternoon included Layard’s
Titbabbler, Fairy Flycatcher, Cape Rock Thrush and a spectacular
pair of Verreux’s Eagle. Finally we headed to Lambert’s
Bay, arriving in time to visit the impressible Cape Gannet colony,
where Grey-headed Gull was also seen.
13 October: Namaqualand – day of the Red Lark
Another pre-breakfast outing proved very successful, as we quickly
notched up Cape Clapper Lark, Cape Penduline-Tit, White-throated
Seed-eater, Pale Chanting Goshawk and Southern Grey Tit. Soon we
were headed north again, with stops for Giant Kingfisher, stone
plants on the Knersvlakte and Namaqua Warbler, Fairy Flycatcher
and Pririt Batis along an acacia-lined watercourse.
After lunch at Kamieskroon we wound our way through the spectacular
Kamiesberg where Black-headed Canary, Ground Woodpecker and Mountain
Wheatear were popular additions. Arriving at the edge of Bushmanland,
it was clear the area had caught some recent rain – birds
were very active. Southern Ant-eating, Karoo and Tractrac Chats
fell in rapid succession, followed by Double-banded Courser, Chat
Flycatcher and Greater Kestrel. Once on the plains proper we quickly
located a pair of dainty Karoo Eremomela, and to round of a very
successful day, a Red Lark in display. After dark, a night drive
proved highly rewarding with a number of Bat-eared foxes and two
separate Aardvark sightings! The sighting of this uncommon mammal
was perhaps the highlight of our birding trip!
14 October: A taste of Bushmanland
A short pre-breakfast outing around our guest farm made it apparent
just how dry most of Bushmanland was. There were virtually no nomadic
birds present. A meagre four Larklike Buntings and perhaps 20 Grey-backed
Sparrowlarks joined residents such as Karoo Korhaan, Spotted Thick-knee
and Spike-heeled Lark. After breakfast we headed for the Koa River
dunes, stopping en route for our only Ludwig’s Bustard of
the trip. By the time we reached the dunes the wind had picked up
considerably, making it a real challenge to find the dune form of
Red Lark. Success at last, we continued onwards to Kakamas, where
we stopped to have the vehicle checked out – a vague burning
smell had emanated from the back, earlier in the day.
While the mechanic gave the vehicle a clear bill of health, we ticked
Orange River White-eye outside. Shortly we were on our way to Augrabies,
not without drama from the car’s airconditioning that resulted
in green smoke pouring forth!
15 October: Augrabies, to the Kalahari
The acacia thickets around Augrabies Falls campsite were the focus
of our morning’s birding. African Reed-Warbler skulked in
the thickets, together with Acacia Pied Barbet and Ashy Tit. More
conspicuous were Pale-winged Starling, which perched on the roofs
of huts, Dusky Sunbird, actively feeding on the numerous aloes,
and African Red-eyed Bulbul. Over breakfast we watched the activities
of a pair of Golden-tailed Woodpecker at their nest.
From Augrabies we headed straight for Upington. Our lunch stop along
the Molopo River produced White-browed Sparrow-weaver, Marico Sunbird,
Greater Scimitarbill, Yellow-bellied Eremomela and Brubru. We arrived
at Twee Rivieren in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in time for
a short drive through the dunes before the gates closed. However,
we hadn’t even unpacked when Burnt-necked Eremomela called
from trees near our huts. This was a new species for the reserve,
no mean feat given the number of birders that visit! Also of interest
in camp was an African Cuckoo that called incessantly. When we finally
made it out of camp we were immediately greeted by a young leopard
in a tree, and in the dunes rewarded with Fawn-coloured and Eastern
Clapper Larks, Scaly-feathered Finch, Rufous-eared Warbler, Sociable
Weaver and Pygmy Falcon, and our first of many striking Northern
Black Korhaans.
16 October: Kalahari
With picnic breakfasts and lunches packed, we set off up the Nossob
River on a large loop of the southern half of the park. Acacias
along the river were home to the vivid Swallow-tailed Bee-eater
and Crimson-breasted Boubou, Kalahari Robin, Marico Flycatcher,
Lilac-breasted Roller and Black-chested Prinia. At around 8am sandgrouse
started to come in to drink, so we focussed our attention around
the waterholes, where both Namaqua and Burchell’s Sandgrouse
were seen in good numbers. Other birds coming for a drink included
Southern Black-throated Canary and Red-headed Finch, joined by black-back
jackal. Continuing along the riverbed we saw several Kori Bustard
and Secretarybird, and a beautiful cheetah lying up in the shade
of a Camelthorn, watching springbok, gemsbok and blue wildebeest.
As always, raptors were a feature with Bateleur, Tawny Eagle, Black-chested
Snake Eagle, Martial Eagle, Greater Kestrel and White-backed Vulture
seen. After lunch we headed into the dunes soon to find our first
dark-maned Kalahari lion. Other noteworthy sightings were Red-crested
Korhaan, and, after much searching, a few groups of Pink-billed
Lark. The return trip down to Auob River was less eventful, but
did produce our first Bradfield’s Lark, the large-billed,
western form of Sabota Lark. A fitting end to the day was watching
a mother leopard and her two large cubs stalking each other across
deep orange sand dunes.
17 October: Kalahari
With one morning left, we still had not seen Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl,
so we headed up the Auob River, all eyes scanning dense Kamelthorn
trees. A surprise pair of Ground-scraper Thrush fed in the riverbed,
but no owl was spotted, so we took the dune road across to the Nossob
River. Immediately we had a pair of Lanner Falcon, and later a Desert
Cisticola in the tall roadside grass. As a final resort, we travelled
a short way up the Nossob River. We hadn’t gone far, when
Ian, in his usual calm manner, asked to stop. Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl!
He had done it again.
Satisfied, we turned around and headed for the Molopo River. En
route we spotted a Violet-eared Waxbill, which ducked into the first
bush, never to reappear. A quick dip at the lodge pool was interrupted
by a Lappet-faced Vulture soaring in the distance.
Once the temperature had dropped a little, we birded the grounds
of the lodge, where Green-winged Pytilia, Pearl-spotted Owl and
Shaft-tailed Whydah were joined by an unexpected Diederik Cuckoo.
Perhaps the most memorable sighting was a massive Cape cobra, whose
every move was followed by a flock of chattering Sociable Weavers.
After dark we went for a short drive, quickly locating a Southern
White-faced Owl and a couple of churring Rufous-cheeked Nightjar.
18 October: Bushmanland
Rain over the previous couple of days between Upington and the Molopo
River had already made a difference to the bird activity. As we
drove southwards, massive flocks of Grey-backed Sparrowlark flushed
from the road, one of which was joined also by a pair of Black-eared
Sparrowlark, that unfortunately could not be relocated after they
had flushed off the road. Once across the dunes and onto the gravel
plains, we located several other larks, including our first Karoo
Long-billed Lark and only Sclater’s Larks of the trip. Soon
afterwards, among a flock of Sparrowlarks, several very pale Stark’s
Lark were found, allowing for good comparison with the Sclater’s
we had seen only half an hour previously. From Upington we continued
southwards to Brandvlei, across dry and desolate plains with very
few birds. Dedicated scanning for Burchell’s Courser went
without reward.
19 October: Tanqua Karoo
Given that Bushmanland was so parched and we had seen virtually
all the possible birds, we decided to head immediately southwards
and spend more time looking for Burchell’s Courser in the
Tanqua Karoo. A couple of stops were made en route, first for flocks
of South African Cliff Swallow milling around one of the bridges
and a single Booted Eagle perched in a cultivated field. We arrived
in the Tanqua around midday, with the harsh sun beating down. Still,
ever-focussed, we went straight to work, walking in a spread out
line over barren gravel plains, scanning for any movement that could
reveal a courser. Still without luck, we decided to drive deeper
into the Tanqua, and take one of the small side roads. Slowly driving
along, we scanned the area, until an ever-familiar call was made
by Ian. “There is one!”. Much relieved, and perhaps
most to Frank’s joy, there were at least four Burchell’s
Courser, including youngsters. After watching these beauties for
a while, we had to leave for our guesthouse. En route we stopped
briefly at Skitterykloof, where calling Cinnamon-breasted Warbler
remained out of view, despite our best efforts.
20 October: Day of the Cinnamon-breasted
Warbler
After a tasty omelette to kick off the day, we were soon back at
Skitterykloof. Before even locking the vehicle, we could hear a
Cinnamon-breasted Warbler calling from the steep cliffs above us.
But, to be true to its reputation, the bird did not relent readily.
We focussed for some time on irregular bouts of calls that indicated
that the bird was on the move, until, finally, it was spotted sitting,
tail cocked and head thrown back, right at the top of a rocky ridge.
Persistence paid off, as it repeated the dose a few minutes later,
this time watched through the scopes.
With nothing else to be gained here, we headed for the moister,
forested valley of Grootvadersbosch. As we approached Tradouw Pass,
dark clouds loomed overhead, and soon it was pouring down in heavy
sheets of rain. Quite a contrast to where we had started in the
morning! The rain flushed an impressive puffadder from its hideout,
which battled across the road, cold and sluggish. Between bursts
of rain we managed a bit of birding, although most of the afternoon
was a write-off. Still, we located a number of forest and forest
edge species, including Amethyst and Greater Double-collared Sunbird,
Swee Waxbill, African Olive Pigeon and an excited Red-chested Cuckoo
that perched on some telephone wires. One of the many ponds in the
area held a pair of African Black Duck.
21 October: Grootvadersbosch
Fortunately the heavy rain that fell through most of the night had
abated by the morning, and we entered the forest proper. En route,
a colossal African Crowned Eagle soared low overhead. Soon we found
a foraging flock with Olive Woodpecker, Forest Canary, Yellow-throated
Woodland Warbler, Grey Cuckooshrike, Olive Bush Shrike and Blue-mantled
Crested Flycatcher.
However, the rain seemed to have silenced Knysna Warbler and Narina
Trogon, which hardly made a peep all morning. Perhaps the highlight
was a pair of Forest Buzzard displaying over the forest, and later
a bird perched at eye level, no more than 15 m from the road. It
was then time to head back to Cape Town, where we hoped, finally,
to get out into the open ocean.
22 October: The Pelagic, at last!
Much relieved, we boarded the little fishing boat at Simonstown
and headed out into a calm False Bay. With no more than a gentle
breeze, few birds were flying, until finally we found a trawler
raising its net. Thousands of seabirds milled around in a chaotic
frenzy. Single Black-browed and Indian Yellow-nosed Albatrosses
were spotted among the more common Atlantic Yellow-nosed and most
common Shy Albatrosses. Several Northern Giant Petrels joined in,
together with good numbers of Great and Sooty Shearwater, White-chinned
and Pintado Petrel, and Wilson’s Storm Petrel. Finally, and
to round off our list, two Sabine’s Gulls made a pass overhead.
It was then back to Cape Town and time to bid Frank and Ian farewell.
Colin, Bill and I spent the night in Cape Town before flying to
Durban the following day.
KWAZULU-NATAL
23 October: An introduction to the KwaZulu-Natal
midlands
Touching down at Durban International Airport,
we immediately picked up our rental car before heading southwards
along the coast, and finally inland to Creighton and Smithfield
Guest House. Roadside birds included showy Long-tailed, Red-collared
and Red-shouldered Widowbirds, a couple of peculiar Long-crested
Eagle and White-backed Duck. After a welcome cup of tea, we talk
a walk around the back of the guesthouse. A stand of nearby trees
produced a shimmering Violet-backed Starling, Red-throated Wryneck
and family of Black Sparrowhawk. A striking male Black-bellied Bustard
quacked in display, while a flock of bright Orange-breasted Waxbill
fed in some recently burnt fields. The find of the afternoon, however,
was at least two pairs of Short-tailed Pipit, a new record for Malcolm,
our birder-host, and an exceptionally rare bird in South Africa.
Some late afternoon birding nearby, with Malcolm, produced Croaking,
Ayre’s and Pale-crowned Cisticolas, and Rufous-naped Lark,
but no hoped-for Black-rumped Buttonquail. After dark we watched
Fiery-necked Nightjar flutter in the spotlight beam.
24 October: Sani Pass
An early start saw us reach Himeville by 6:30. Here we met with
Robin Guy, and jumped into his Toyota Hilux to head up Sani Pass.
Not far out of town, a pair of Southern Crowned Crane brought us
to a screeching halt. As we neared the bottom of the pass, we slowed
down, spotting African Golden-breasted Bunting, Blue-billed Firefinch
and Drakensberg Prinia on the roadside. With more patience we added
the smart Bush Blackcap and African Yellow Warbler to our list.
Just beyond the border post, an out-of-character Barratt’s
Warbler sat and called out in the open for at least five minutes!
Next was a suite of species associated with Protea stands, sandstone
outcrops and short grasslands: Wailing Cisticola, the snappy Buff-streaked
Chat, Cape Rock-Thrush, Gurney’s Sugarbird and Long-billed
Pipit. Upwards we continued, until we found our first Sani specials
in the form of Orange-breasted Rock-jumper and Drakensberg Siskin,
both feeding on the verge of the road. Reaching the top of the pass,
we headed straight for the nearby pub, where a flock of Southern
Bald Ibis foraged on some nearby field. A little further, Sentinel
Rock-Thrush and Mountain Pipit obliged, and lastly African Rock
Pipit and an impressive Bearded Vulture on the nest.
With some time to spare, we headed back down the pass in the early
afternoon, arriving at Xumeni Forest in time to watch several pair
of Cape Parrot fly in to roost, one of which perched conspicuously
in a tree top. A fine ending to a fine day.
25 October: Forests – Xumeni and Entumeni
Heavy mist made early morning birding slow, but we managed to track
down Black-backed Puffback, Chorister Robin-Chat, Orange Ground
Thrush, Black and African Emerald Cuckoo and Knysna Turaco at Xumeni
Forest, before heading back to the guest house for breakfast. Soon,
we were again on the road, this time heading to Eshowe, and on to
a nearby forest. The last two hours of light proved very rewarding,
with Dark-backed Weaver, Black-bellied Starling, a noisy pair of
Square-tailed Drongo, Red-fronted Tinkerbird, shrieking White-eared
Barbets, Trumpeter Hornbill, Purple-crested Turaco and a stunning
male Narina Trogon added to the list. Several Eastern Bronze-naped
Pigeon were calling, but, as usual, proved very skittish and were
seen only in flight.
26 October: Eshowe to Mkhuze
A pre-dawn start allowed us to track down successfully African Wood-Owl
on the edge of Dlinza Forest. The dawn chorus was very productive,
the highlight being exceptional views of a Lemon Dove. Also spotted
were Olive Sunbird and Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird. By this time the
weather had turned dark and rainy, with light drizzle and strong
winds making birding from the canopy platform unproductive and unpleasant.
So we cut our losses and headed for the forest floor once again,
tracking down a Spotted Ground-Thrush in short time. We then continued
our journey northwards, up the coast, stopping in at Mtunzini to
search for Palmnut Vulture. One flew lower over our heads, but Colin
was engrossed with taking photographs and missed it. Fortunately,
patience was rewarded with excellent views of at least another two
adults.
Next was Richards Bay, where a mosaic of wetlands makes for productive
birding. Unfortunately the weather had deteriorated even further,
with strong winds driving all but the boldest African Jacana into
cover. Still, we found our first Hottentot Teal and Pink-backed
Pelican. In the swaying reed beds Yellow and Grosbeak Weavers, and
Winding Cisticola clung on tightly.
We pressed on northwards for our first taste of savanna bushveld
birding. At the turnoff to Mkhuze a pair of Striped Kingfisher kicked
off our list. On the way to the entrance a Walhberg’s Eagle
soared low over the road and flocks of Blue Waxbill flushed off
the road. After checking in, we headed straight for the sand forest,
and immediately hit the jackpot, finding a mixed flock containing
both Pink-throated Twinspot and Rudd’s Apalis. To round off
the day, we found several pairs of comical Crested Guineafowl and
a dainty Suni antelope.
27 October: Mkhuze Big Day
Today the weather favoured birding: high cloud cover and windless
situations made conditions near-perfect. Back in the sand forest
we quickly found the remaining endemic, Neergaard’s Sunbird,
and over the rest of the day a plethora of others nectarivores concentrated
around the scarlet blossoms of weaping-boer-bean trees: Grey, Purple-banded,
Marico, White-bellied, Collared and Scarlet-chested Sunbirds. Bushveld
birds were exceptionally active, and our list grew rapidly, with
highlights including an impressive number of Bush Shrikes (Grey-headed,
Orange-breasted and Gorgeous Bush Shrikes, and Black-crowned and
Brown-crowned Tchagras), turdids (White-browed, African White-throated
and Red-capped Robin-Chats, White-browed and Eastern Bearded Scrub
Robins, and Kurrichane Thrush) and Flycatchers (Spotted, Lead-coloured,
Ashy and Pallid). Other birds seen in the bushveld, worthy of mention,
included Crested Francolin, a single Cuckoo Hawk, Lizard Buzzard,
Red-billed Oxpecker, Black-collared and Crested Barbets, Cardinal
and Bearded Woodpeckers, Grey Penduline-Tit, Bushveld Pipit, Burnt-necked
Eremomela, Eastern Nicator, Black Cuckooshrike and Dusky Indigobird.
In the riverine forest were Little and White-fronted Bee-eaters,
a pair of smart Broad-billed Rollers, Lesser Honeyguide, African
Goshawk, Brown-headed Parrot and African Yellow White-eye. Nsumo
Pan’s water levels had improved due to some recent rains,
with African Wattled Lapwing, Water Thicknee, Yellow-billed and
Openbilled Storks, and Goliath Heron found along with an array of
other species. Finally, African Quailfinch was seen foraging on
the track in front of the vehicle and, at dusk, a couple of churring
Square-tailed Nightjar seen at close range. Quite a day –
it brought 177 species, plus Nile crocodile, nyala, greater kudu,
giraffe, Burchell’s zebra,
hippopotamus and white rhinoceros!
28 October: To St Lucia
An early morning outing to track down African Broadbill almost succeeded,
but the displaying bird keep just beyond our gaze. Back to camp
to join our fig forest walk, we were disappointed to find that we
had been requested to report at the wrong time, and that the rest
of the party had left an hour earlier. So we quickly reorganised
our day and headed for Muzi Pan. En route Cinnamon-breasted Bunting,
Eastern Paradise Whydah and Arrow-marked Babbler were new. At Muzi
we were joined by Bheki, who took us to his reliable Pel’s
Fishing Owl roost site. We were soon peering through the thick riverine
growth at two sets of large, dark eyes, surrounded by large marmalade-coloured
bodies. As if this were not enough, we added a string of other new
species to our list. Red-faced Cisticola, Black-throated Wattle-eye
and Green Malkoha were outshone only by South Africa’s most
recently described species, Lemon-breasted Canary. In the vicinity
of the lake, large flocks of swallows hunted over the floodplain,
among them Wire-tailed, Rufous-chested and Grey-rumped. Black Egret
fed on the water’s edge.
After a very successful two hours at Muzi we continued to St Lucia,
heading straight for some nearby coastal dune forests, where the
two main targets, Woodward’s Batis and Brown Scrub-Robin,
were tracked down in rapid succession, and Livingstone’s Turaco
obliged soon after. Red duiker darted across the lawn. After dusk
we added the last possible nightjar to our list: the decidedly local
Swamp Nightjar.
29 October: St Lucia to Durban
With just a couple of hours of birding left, we set straight to
work, tracking down a flock of Green Twinspot feeding in the treetops.
Driving north towards Cape Vidal, we kept a careful watch for eagles,
which produced, in order, and in decreasing rarity, Southern Banded,
Black-chested and Brown Snake Eagle! A Tambourine Dove perched next
to the road rounded matters off on a high note. We headed back to
Durban, where we all bade each other a warm farewell and headed
our different ways.
Birding
Africa Trip Report by Tour Leader Michael
Mills.
Many of the birding sites on this trip are described in detail
in the Southern African
Birdfinder which is widely available in South African bookshops
and on the internet. (e.g., www.netbooks.co.za
or www.wildsounds.co.uk). However
you're always welcome to contact
us if you're interested in a guided trip in this area.
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